Bowser

Long time no see!! Between children, caretaking my dad the last 6 months of his life, and other health problems, it's been a while since I've even logged on to my blog.

Sorry, for those of you who follow me and to anyone who has commented on previous posts. I have gone back and replied, if anyone still cares... after a few years, it's doubtful.

Oh well. 

Anyway..

I've crocheted two Bowsers in the past years for gifts, without a pattern (mostly).

I didn't  write the first one down, but THIS time I attempted it. Uhg, how misserable. I admire people who write patterns, I'd much rather just make the things.

So, I tried to write this down. And, I will admit, the pattern was partly copied from this website, where she made an amazingly detailed Bowser and wrote a wonderful pattern. But there is also a good bit of my own work in this version, as I did many things differently.

Disclaimer: this is half-tutorial style. If you don't know the stitches or general crochet how-to, this may not be for you. I'm not good at writing patterns. I've tried and it's just not my skill.

Sorry.

I'll try to check back occasionally to reply to comments, but that's another thing I'm not very good at doing...

Anyway, here is my attempt at a pattern for Bowser.

Body-golden
Round 1: sc 6 in Magic Ring (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Round 3: *sc in next, 2 sc in next sc* around (18)
Round 4: *sc in next 2, 2 sc in next sc* around (24)
Round 5: *sc in next 3, 2 sc in next sc* around (30)
Round 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Round 7-8: sc in each sc around (36)
Round 9: *sc in next 5, 2 sc in next sc* around (42)
Round 10-12: sc in each sc around (42)
Round 13: *sc next 13, 2 sc next sc* around (45)
Round 14-15: sc in each sc around (45)
Round 16: *sc in next 8, 2 sc next sc* around (50)
Round 17: sc in each sc around (50)
Round 18: *sc in next 9, 2 sc in next sc* around (55)
Round 19: sc in each sc around (55)
Round 20: *sc in next 10, 2 sc in next sc* around (60)
Round 21-23: sc in each sc around (60)
Round 24: *sc in next 4, decrease in next 2* around (50)
Round 25: *sc in next 3, decrease in next 2* around (40)
Round 26: *sc in next 2, decrease in next 2* around (30)
Round 27: *sc, decrease in next 2* around (20)
Round 28: *decrease in next 2* around (10)
F/O. Sew together to close tightly, otherwise will be left with big holes from the decreases


Leg- golden (make 2)

Rds 1-5: Increase to 30
Rd 6: sc in each around
Rd 7: Dec 6x, 1 sc in each remaining sc (24)
Rd 8: dec 4x, 1 sc in next 12, dec 2x (18)
Rd 9- 19: 1 sc in each around
> rd 13&14: 6 ldc in front of leg for knee bend <
Rd 20: 8 sc, finish off with long tail for sewing
*Total of 20 rounds



Arms - golden (make 2)

Rd 1: ch7, skip 1st ch, 12 sc around the chain (form an oval)
Rd 2-5: 1 sc in each sc around
Rd 6: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5, repeat from * around (14 sc)
Rd 7: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next, sc in next 6, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining 3 (16 sc)
Rd 8-16: 1 sc in each around
> Rd 10-11: ldc to make an elbow (4 stitches per round) <

Claws - white: 3 foundation sc on each finger and toe


Tail - golden

Round 1: Sc 6 in MR
Round 2: *sc in each sc* around (6)
Round 3: *sc, 2 sc in next sc* around (9)
Round 4: *sc in each sc* around (9)
Round 5: *sc 2, 2 sc in next sc* around (12)
Round 6: *sc in each sc* around (12)
Round 7: *sc 3, 2 sc in next sc* around (15)
Round 8: *sc in each sc* around (15)
Round 9: *sc 4, 2 sc in next sc* around (18)
Round 10: *sc in each sc* around (18)
Round 11: *sc 5, 2 sc in next sc* around (21)
Round 12:*sc in each sc* around (21)
Round 13: *sc 6, 2 sc in next 2 sc* around (24)
Round 14: *sc in each sc* around (24)

Shell (green)

Round 1: 6 sc in MR
Round 2: *2 sc in each sc* around (12)
Round 3: *sc, 2 sc in next sc* around (18)
Round 4: *sc 2, 2 sc in next sc* around (24)
Round 5: *sc 3, 2 sc in next sc * around (30)
Round 6: *sc 4, 2 sc in next sc* around (36)
Round 7: *sc 5, 2 sc in next sc* around (42)
Round 8-9: *sc in each sc* around

Shell edge
Romanian chord to length

Shell spikes - white (make 7)
Rd 1: 3 sc
Rd 2: 2sc in each sc (6)
Rd 3: *2sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next, repeat from * 2 times (9)

Sew together

Belly - tan
Row 1: 4 fdc
Row 2: 5 hdc
row 3: *2hdc in next, hdc, repeat from * 2 hdc in last (8)
Row 4: 2 hdc in first and last hdc, hdc in each between (10)
Row 5: inc in first hdc, hdc in each until last, 2 hdc in last (12)
Rows 6- 9: 1 hdc in each
Row 10 : dec hdc, hdc in next 8, dec hdc

Head - green
Round 1: sc 7 in MR
Round 2: *2 sc in each sc* around (14)
Round 3: *sc, 2 sc in each sc* around (21)
Round 4: *sc in each sc* around (21)
Round 5: * sc 2, 2 sc in next sc* around (28)
Round 6: *sc 3, 2 sc in next sc* around (35)
Rd 7-10: 1 sc ineach around
>Switch  to tan color<
Rd 11: 2 sc in next, *1 sc in next, 2 sc in next* repeat from *to* 7 times, 1 sc in remaining sc around (44sc)
Rd 12: *2sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next * 11 times, 1 sc in remaining 22 sc (55 sc)
Rd 13-15: 1 sc in each sc
Rd 16: 1 sc in next 9, sc dec, repeat around (50 sc)
Rd 17: 1 sc in next 3, scdec, repeat around (40sc)
Rd 18: 1 sc in next 8, scdec, repeat around (36)
Rd 19: 1 sc in next 4, scdec around (30)
Rd 20: 1 sc in next 3, scdec around (24)
Rd 21: 1 sc in next 2, scdec around (18)
Rd 22: 1 sc in next sc, scdec around (12)
Rd 23: dec around (6)

Lower jaw - tan
Row 1: 6 sc in MR
Row 2: 2 sc in next 4, ch1, turn
Row 3: *2sc in next, 1 sc in next,* repeat around, ch 1, turn
Row 4: *2sc in next, 1 sc in next 2* repeat around, ch 1, turn
Row 5: *2sc in next, 1 sc in next 3* repeat around, ch1, turn
Row 6: *2sc in next, 1 sc in next 4* repeat around, ch 1, turn
Row 7-9: 1 sc in each, ch 1, turn
Row 10: *decsc in next 2, 1 sc in next 3* repeat around, ch 1, turn
Row 11: (add black in middle) *decsc in next 2, 1 sc in next 3* repeat around, ch 1, turn
Row 12: *decsc in next 2, 1 sc in next 2* repeat around, ch 1, turn

>sew on bottom of the head before sewing head to body, using long tail to divide two upper cheeks<

Horns - white (make 2)
5 sc in MR
1 sc in each
Inc to 8
3 rounds of 8

Nose - tan
Rd 1: 4 sc in MR
Rd 2: 1 sc in 1st, 2 sc in next, 2 times (6)
Rd 3: 1 sc in next 2, 2 in next, 2 times (8)
Rd 4: 1 sc in each
Finish off, leaving long tail. Do not stuff

Embroider eyes

Add shelled hair and 2 extra horns (like the shell horns, but longer)

Final Disclaimer: This is not my character. Do not sell this pattern, and per copywrite laws you may not be able to sell the finished product depending on where you live and such. I don't know. 

Enjoy!!

Baby booties

So, been a while.

I’m still improvising crochet projects ALL THE TIME, but rarely write them down.

Here’s one I did type out!

Materials: baby weight yarn
Hook size G

Ch 10.

Round 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next 5 chains, 6hdc in last ch. 

(Working along the opposite side of row just worked)

1 hdc in each of next 6 chs, 5hdc in last ch (which is the 1st stitch of rnd) 

2: ch1, 1 hdc in first 9 hdc, 2 hdc in next 3 hdc, 1 hdc in next 9, 2 hdc in rem 3 hdc

3: 1 hdc in first 11, 2 hdc in next 2, 1 hdc in next 13, 2 hdc in next 2, 1 hdc in rem 2 hdc

4: 1 fphdc in each hdc around 

5: 1 hdc in each hdc around (34 hdc)

6: 1 hdc in next 10 hdc, 3 hdctog (3x), 1 hdc in next 10 hdc, 2 hdc together, 1 hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc tog (26 hdc)

7: 1 hdc in next 7 hdc, 5 hdc tog, sk next hdc, 5 hdc tog, 1 hdc in rem 8 hdc (17 hdc)

Boot cuff (switch to rows, front loop only)

Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch and each rem ch (6 sc), so st to boot, sl st into next hdc, sc in each sc, ch 1, turn, repeat around.

In contrasting color, crab st (reverse sc) around top edge

Use yarn to tie a decorative bow, and it’s done!

Boot Cuff- better pictures

Ok, so here are some better pictures to help with my last post.
For this pair, I am using Red Heart worsted and US I hook (5.5mm).

Start with measuring around your leg (cm makes it easier to get a good fit)

Base of cuff
Decide how tall you want your base. This will be under the boot and keeps the cuff from sliding down.
 You will make simple sc ribbed rows, working in the back loop only, ch1, and turn each row.

Here is the start of my 20sc, back loop only, ribbing which is the base of the cuff.

For my leg, I need to continue until it is 32 cm long (42 rows in those case) .

Then, grab both ends, hold them together, and sl st across to make a tube.

Turn the tube on its side like so.

You will work the decorative part in the top of the tube.

Switch to larger hook (forme, US K :6.5mm)
Pick a stitch pattern you like. (I wanted a shell stitch, so I needed a multiple of 6+1)
This part is worked in rows, turning each time.

1- sc around evenly, ch1, turn
2- hdc around in each sc, ch, turn
3- begin stitch pattern (again, for me, shells)
Continue your stitch pattern until the cuff is your desired height. Cut yarn and weave ends in.

In my picture, you see I changed yarns. I ran out of my blue ww and decided to use a thin yarn with the larger hook to try a lacy-er look.

Here area few pictures of it finished.

 Here you can see the slit left by doing rows. I find it easier to fold over the top of the boot with the slit.

 Folded over on itself.

A closer view of the shell pattern.

I hope this clarifies my past post a bit for you.

What do you think?

Boot Cuff Tutorial

Boot cuffs seem to be all the rage now, and they are really simple to make.
Measurments Needed: 
cm around where the top of your boot lands on your leg.
Ex: my boots go up to my knee, so I took my tape measure and found the top of my calf is 33.5 cm
To make sure it fits snug and doesn't slide down, decrease by about 1cm.

Materials Needed
Yarn of choice (I chose a semi-bulky soft yarn)
Two crochet hooks, two sizes apart (for me, US I and US K worked with my yarn choice)

Bottom of Cuff
ch somewhere between 11 and 21 (this part will be under the boot, so the length will be up to your preference)
Row One: sc in 2nd ch and in each ch across
Row Two: ch1, turn, sc in back loop of each sc
Repeat row two until it matches the above mentioned measurement (using an I hook and semi-bulky yarn, I reached 32 cm with 36 rows)
Put ends together and sl st across to close seem.

Switch to a bigger hook (two sizes worked for me)

This is where you can get creative. Pick a stitch pattern you like. My first go I went with a simple shell pattern.
1- sc evenly around (working in the side of the stitches you made) the number of stitches needed as a base for your chosen pattern
For me, that meant a multiple of 6+1
2- ch 1, turn, hdc in each sc
3- Work stitch pattern, working in rows and turning each time. That leaves a slit in the back where it can fold easily over the top of the boot, or not wad up behind your knee if your making the cuff for a tall boot.

My first set turned out at you see below.

In this one you can kinda see where my slit was.

A closer view of one

How it looks on and folded over

I promise to take pictures as I work on my next pair and post them in a follow-up soon.

Doll capelet

This is more of a tutorial than actual pattern. ..

Row 1: Ch an even number, sc in each ch (odd number of sc)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), * skip one, V-stitch in next sc, repeat from*  to the end, dc in last stitch

Row 3: ch3, all the way across put 1 dc in each dc and 2 dc in ch 1 space of v-stitches, ending with 1 dc in turning ch

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until it is large enough to drape over the shoulders, ending with row 2. Each row may not work out perfectly evenly, but that's why this isn't a real pattern as much as tutorial style.

Row (5): ch 3, 3dc in ch space of v-stitch all the way across, dc in turning ch

Row (6): ch 3, v-stitch in middle dc across, dc in turning ch

Repeat last 2 rows until it's the length you want (I ended with row 5)

Cut yarn. Time for the hood!

Row 1: dc in 1 st st, 2 dc in next- across
Row 2: 1 dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next- across
Repeat that increase pattern until it's large enough to fit around the dolls head, then dc in each dc for the height of the head.
Fold in half and sew together,

Sc around the entire thing to give it a smoother look.

Add ch stitching on both sides of the next to tie it on.

These are different ideas. Maybe your doll of choice can have a new hooded capelet for the winter.
:-)

Here is my finished version. I used two colors because I didn't have enough of the red, lol.

Wow, been a while...

Ok, so soon after my last post I found out I was pregnant and life has been crazy ever since.
To sum up the almost two and a half years, I am now a stay at home mom to a lovely two year old girl. I've lost three babies in the womb but God is still good. Scratch that, God is great!

I'm still into my own crochet patterns/improvises but not practiced at writing them out.

I've also gotten into DIY homemaking and exercising so you may see some of those adventures here.

Can't promise to update daily, but now that I've recovered my password I can update! Yay!

Stay tuned (I say to, like, one official follower who may not even see this blog anymore.)
If you stumbled across this blog,  come back and see if you like what will be coming.

God bless!

Flower pin

Couldn't remember or find the flower pattern I wanted, so made one up today.
Enjoy!

Round 1: 8 sc in magic ring, sl st tog, ch1
Round 2: Sc, *ch2, sc in next sc, repeat from *around,ch2 sl st tog
Round 3: sl st into ch2 space, ch1, 3sc in sp, ch1, *3 sc in next ch sp, ch1, repeat from * around, sl st tog

Change color
Sl st in any sc of round 2, ch 1

Round 4: Sc around sc in rd 2, *ch 3, sc in next sc, repeat from *around
Round 5: In each ch sp, sc, 3 dc, sc

Change color
Sl st in any sc of round 4, ch1

Round 6: Sc in rd 4, * ch5, sc in next sc, repeat frpm * around
Round 7: In each ch5 sp, sc, 5dc, sc

Hope that makes sense! Picture to come.

New edging that I love!

Ok, so I've been making a lot more of my "boy/girl potholders" because of a craft fair coming up and instead of the shell edging on the "girl" ones, I did a picot edging that looks wonderful! (picture to come...)



The picot I used is ch3, sl st in top of prev sc



So, attach anywhere with a sl st, ch 1, sc in same st,* picot, sc in next 2sc, repeat around, evenly spacing the sc, picot in the area between the legs and sl st together in the first sc.
Repeat for second leg!

And I have been creating a few other patterns, just haven't had time to post because of school.
Sorry! But maybe use this idea, 'cause it does make a precious edging.

God bless!

Starbella Yarn Scarf

All the patterns online for Starbella Yarn is for knit projects, but you actually CAN crochet with this yarn.

This pattern is what I found from Primier, but modified a bit because I don't like the ruffles quite so big.

First, how to use the Starbella Yarn with a crochet hook -
1 - Stretch it out and untwist (a constant thing with Starbella yarn, but you get used to how to hold it if you mess around with fingering enough).
2 - You chain by inserting your hook in the first top loop, then loop the 2nd loop and pull through, then next loop and pull through, et al.
3 - You make a sc by inserting hook in st, pull next top loop through, then pick up the next top loop and pull through both.
(8 minute video on the starbella website here.  In fact, this video gives you a pattern to go by, but it's not the one I'm posting.)

If you don't want to watch the video, or it doesn't work for you, then here are some pictures I took of the process.

Step one: Pull from the ball and separate so you can see the netting.

 Step 2: Insert hook along the top loops/holes of the netting (this is what you crochet with) - first 1 and 2 loops

 Pull the 2nd loop through the 1st loop, creating the first ch st.  Repeat this to continue a chain

So, using the top loops, I simply...

ch 10, sc in the 1st ch
*ch 10, sc in las sc *
repeat from * to * until it's as long as you want it to be.

When finished, finish off by pulling the un-separated yarn through a final loop and pulling tight to make a knot.

This is my final in the color you see above.

Hope that makes sense and you enjoy it!

Cloak Pattern!!

I wanted a cloak for RenFest, and of course I wanted to make it.  So I looked and looked for a free pattern that I liked.  Well, I only found 2 free patterns and I didn't much care for the look or construction, but they helped me with an idea.

So I give credit to Lion Brand's Day and Night Poncho and Linda Kaye Smith's Ruffled Shawl/Cape for inspiration.

Using math and weight of the finished product, I figured I used about 8 skeins or 1500 yards of yarn for this project.

Here is my pattern.

One-piece Cape with hood

Hook:  I

Yarn: Homespun (or similar weight)

Body

sc foundation 48

Row 1: ch2 (counts as dc here and throughout) dc in each sc across – 48 dc

Row 2: ch2, dc in each dc across – 48 dc

Row 3: ch2, dc in next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 56 dc

Row 4: ch2, dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 64 dc

Row 5: ch2, dc in next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 72 dc

Row 6: ch2, dc in next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 80 dc

Row 7: ch2, dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 88 dc

Row 8: ch2, dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 10 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 96 dc

Row 9: ch2, dc in next 10 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 104 dc

Row 10: ch2, dc in next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 12 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 112 dc

Rows 11 – 12: ch2, 1 dc in each dc – 112 dc

Row 13: ch2, dc in next 12 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 13 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 120 dc

Rows 14-15: ch2, 1 dc in each dc – 120 dc

Row 16: ch2, dc in next 13 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 14 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 128 dc

Rows 17-18: ch2, 1 dc in each dc – 128 dc

Row 19: ch2, dc in next 14 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 15 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 136 dc

Rows 20-21: ch2, 1 dc in each dc – 136dc

Row 22: ch2, dc in next 15, 2 dc in next (dc in next 16dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 144dc

Rows 23-30: ch2, 1 dc in each dc

Row 31: ch2, dc in next 16, 2 dc in next, (dc in next 17 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 152 dc

Rows 32-39 – ch2, 1 dc in each dc – 152 dc

Row 40: ch2, dc in next 17 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 18, 2dc in next dc) 7 times – 160 dc

Rows 41-48: ch2, 1 dc in each dc – 160dc

Row 49: ch2, dc in next 18 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 19, 2dc in next dc) 7 times – 168 dc

Rows 50-57: ch2, 1 dc each dc – 168 dc

Row 58: ch2, dc in next 19dc, 2 dc in next dc, ( dc in next 20, 2dc in next dc) 7 times – 176 dc

Finish off

Hood

Attach new yarn with a slip stitch to first ch on opposite side of starting ch of body

Row 1: ch2, dc in next 6 ch, 2 dc in next ch, (dc in next 7, 2dc in next dc) 5 times – 54 dc

Rows 2-3: ch2, 1 dc in each across

Row 4: ch2, dc in nest 7, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 8, 2dc in next dc) 5 times – 60 dc

Rows 5-6: ch2, 1 dc in each across

Row 7: ch2, dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 9, 2dc in next dc) 5 times – 66 dc

Rows 8-9: ch1, 1 dc in each across

Row 10: ch2, dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in next, (dc in next 10, 2dc in next dc) 5 times – 72 dc

Rows 11-16: ch2, 1 dc in each across

Row 17: ch2, 1 dc in next 31 dc – 32 dc

Rows 18-20: ch2, 1 dc in each across.

~ Fold to where the end of row 20 touches the end of row 17 and sew together, finish off

Edging

attach with a slip stitch anywhere along the edge, ch1, hdc evenly around the entire cloak, finish off.

Enjoy!  Please feel free to make this for whatever use, but give me credit and DON'T sell the pattern.

God bless!

Little Boy/Girl Potholders

I found some potholders at the fleamarket and the lady only wanted 50 cents for the set.  So, naturally, I bought them.  Besides, I wanted to be able to figure out the pattern and share it because it's Oh So Cute!

Here are the ones I bought.

Now for the pattern and my finished version.

Materials: Cotton Yarn (I used a local stores, but you could use the typical Sugar 'n Creme) - 2 colors
Size I hook

Notes:
This pattern is worked in rounds unless otherwise stated (no turning) and top-down - the hanger row is done last
First ch2 of each round does not count as a dc
Boy and girl versions are identical until round 7
The top of the pants/skirt is also the same.
Pattern is worked in back loop only unless otherwise stated

Special Stitches: dc increase (dc inc) - 3 dc in one dc
Shell pattern - sc, skip one st, 5 dc in next, skip one st, repeat from beginning (work in both loops)

ch 19

Round 1: 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch to end, 3 dc in last ch, 1 dc on the opposite side of the ch, end with 1 dc in last(beginning) ch, sl st tog (36dc)

Round 2: ch2, 1 dc in first 9 dc, dc inc, 1 dc in next 17 dc, 3 dc in next, 1 dc in rem dc, sl st tog (40 dc)

Round 3-7: *1 dc in all dc to the dc inc, dc in first dc of increase, dc increase in 2nd, 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * once, then 1 dc in each rem dc, sl st tog (you should be adding and even 4 stitches each round.  Round 7 = 60 dc)


Girl version: using your 2nd color

Rd 8: using both loops, sc in each st around, sl st tog, change back to 1st color (60 sc)
Rd 9 : dc in each sc around, sl st tog, finish off (60 dc)

Between the legs:
Row 1: attach yarn to a dc just before where the inc pattern stopped, ch2, 1 dc in next 5 dc, ch2, turn (5 dc)
Row 2: 1 dc in each dc (5 dc)

Sew flap to the other side of skirt and finish off

Around the legs: attach 2nd color anywhere on one 'leg" and do the shell stitch pattern, sl st tog, finish off (7 shells and 7 sc)  Note: I usually start just left of the section between the legs, but it doesn't matter much
Repeat for other side.

Boy version

Legs

Rd 1: with 2nd color and working in both loops, sc in each dc to the dc inc, turn the work and sc in each dc after the dc inc on the opposite side, sl st tog, finish off. (29 sc)
Rd 2: with 1st color, dc in each sc around, finish off (29 dc)
Rd 3 : with 2nd color and working in both loops, sc in each dc around.  Finish off (29 sc)

Repeat for 2nd leg on other side.


Hanger on both potholders

attach color 2 with a sl st in edge of beg ch, ch 1, sc in the ch across (17 sc)
ch 8, sl st in 6th ch from hook, ch1, 12 sc in circle created, sl st tog, finish off.

Here's what my finished ones looked like!

Newborn Mickey Mouse Hat

I was commissioned to make some baby hats, and one was a Mickey Mouse Look-a-like.  Well, there are no patterns for Newborns out there for free, so I decided to write mine down as I went.  Enjoy and Happy Crocheting!

I used Vannas Choice Worsted Weight and an I hook.

Main Hat

Throughout the pattern you will join with a sl st into the first dc and ch2 - the ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch.

Begin with a Magic Ring and 8 dc into magic ring.

Rd 2 - 2 dc in each dc (16 dc)

Rd 3 - 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat around (24 dc)

Rd 4 - 1 dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat around (32 dc)

Rd 5 - 1 dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat around (40 dc)

Rd 6-9 - 1 dc in each dc around (at end of round 9, join w/sl st and only ch1)

Rd 10 - sc in each dc around.  Finish off and weave in end.


Ears (make 2)

Begin with Magic Ring, 6 sc into magic ring

Rd 2 - 2 sc in each sc around, sl st, ch1 (12 sc)

Rd 3 - 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around, sl st, ch1 (18 sc)

Rd 4 - 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, *1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around, sc in final sc, sl st, ch1 (24 sc)

Rd 5 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around, sl st, ch1 (30 sc)

Rd 6 - 1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in nest sc, * 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, * repeat 4 times, 1 sc in next 2 sc, finish off leaving a long tail to sew with (31 sc)

Rd 6 will not be a complete round, you should have 5 unworked sc.


When you finish both ears, use the tail and a needle to sew them into place and weave in the ends.  This should give you a newborn hat with about a 13 in circumference.


Feel free to use this pattern, give it to others, give the finished product as a gift or even sell it but please do NOT sell the pattern or claim it as yours.  In fact, I'd love for you to tell people where you got it from please!  Thanks!

Improvizing - Topped Kitchen Towels

Learn to improvise when crocheting.  This is key when creating unique items.

For example - topped kitchen towels.


I often crochet a top onto kitchen towels to give as gifts or sell at flea markets.  Half of this is improvisation, half of it is the use of a stitch pattern.  This will be my attempt to explain to you how to make said topped towels without the use of a fabric hole puncher.

First, you pick your yarn colors and thread a darning needle with the yarn of your choice.  Use the blanket stitch and sew the yarn onto the top of the towel, folded in half as you see in the pictures above.  I usually leave about 1/4 to 1/2 inch between each stitch (eyeing it, not measuring.  You can measure it you want).  Tie it off.

Count your stitches.  I like to try to have it where if I crochet twice into each blanket stitch I'll get a multiple of 3, but it doesn't really matter.


Using around a size I-K hook, attach your yarn with a sl st to the end of one of the blanket stitches.  ch 1, sc across each of the blanket stiches.

Again, this is where you improvise.  It's fuller if you get at least 2 into each blanket stitch and 3 into the first and last.

Towel 1

If you have a multiple of 3+2 stitches, then the following looks wonderful...

Row 1 - ch3 (counts as dc here and throughout), sk 2 sc, V-stitch in next sc, * skip next 2 sc, V-stitch in next * repeat across to least sc, dc in last sc.

Row 2 - ch3, V- stitch in first V-stitch and in each V-stitch across, 1 dc in lact dc

Repeat Row 2 at least 2 more times.

(count the number of V-stitches you have.  This is where everyone's will be a little different.  If you have 18 V-stitches, you can decrease by multiples of 6 or 3.  If you have 15, you have to decrease by a multiple of 5 or 3.  You will decrease by skipping over V-stitches in the previous row or, if you don't like the hole that leaves, working a V-stitch in the space between V-stitches [this would be like doing a dcdec inbetween 2 dc stitches] Decrease like you do when working a circle.  1dc, 1dc, 1dcdec, 1dc, dc, 1dcdec for a multiple of 3)


Improvising decreasing rows - ch3, V-stitch in first V-stitch, decrease accordingly across, dc in turning ch

Continue decreasing rows - until you have only 5-7 V-stitches left.

Final decreasing row 1 - ch3, dc in each V-stitch across, dc in turning ch

Final Decrease Row 2 - ch2 (not a st), dc dec, dc in each dc across to last 2 dc, dc dec
* if you have 5 dc, stop here, if not, repeat this row until you do.

Handle Flap

Row 1- ch3, dc in each dc across and in turning ch

Repeat row 1 until desired length.

Button Hole

Row 1 - ch1, hdc in each dc across and in turning ch

Row 2, ch1, hdc in next 2 hdc, ch1, sk next hdc, hdc in last 2 hdc

Row 3 - ch1, hdc in each hdc and ch across

Finish off


Fold the handle over, fund a nice button to sew onto where you want it.

Optional Border

On one of the corners where the towel meets the yarn, attach with a sl st, ch1, sc even around your topper (be sure to make 3sc in the corners of you handle to make it squared)

Finish off
 
There ya go, you have a towel to hang in the kitchen!



Towel 2
 
If you have just a random number of stitches, then...

Row 1 - ch3 (counts as 1st dc here and throughout), dc in each sc across

Row 2 - ch3, dc in each dc across and in turning ch

Row 3 - repeat for 2 at least 2-3 more times

Improvising even decreases (count your stitches, you want to decrease evenly across, otherwise your towel will hang sideways)

Dec Row 6 - ch3, * dc in next x dc, dc dec, * repeat from * to the middle, then * dc dec, dc in next x dc, * repeat from * across until last st, dc in last st.

Dec Rows 7-10(ish) - repeat dec row 6 until you reach 5 dc

Handle

Row 1 - ch3, dc in each dc across

repeat row 1 until handle is desired length

Button Hole

Row 1 - ch1, hdc in each dc across and in turning ch

Row 2, ch1, hdc in next 2 hdc, ch1, sk next hdc, hdc in last 2 hdc

Row 3 - ch1, hdc in each hdc and ch across

Finish off


Fold the handle over, fund a nice button to sew onto where you want it.

Optional Border

On one of the corners where the towel meets the yarn, attach with a sl st, ch1, sc even around your topper (be sure to make 3sc in the corners of you handle to make it squared)


Finish off

There ya go, you have a second towel to hang in the kitchen!




Hope that makes enough sense for you.  Again, it's highly improvised, but not that hard once you sit down to it.  And the wonderful thing about it is if you have a stitch dictionary there are lots of different things you can find to do with the various numbers of stitches you'll start off with.

Have fun!!

Pattern Time!

So, it's summer and I want to type up some patterns I've been working on.

For example, I made a slouchy hat for a friend and LOVED it, so I made another one for me and this time wrote down the pattern.

I'm going to post the pattern and some pictures....  Hope you enjoy it!! Please, if you decide to make it, post comments (and if you can/want, pictures) and let me know how it went.

Summer Puff Slouchy Hat

Materials

Caron Simply Soft – 1 Skein (I used Country Blue)

Size N Hook is what I used, you can modify for a smaller slouch use a smaller hook or a longer/larger slouch use a bigger hook.

Notes

Beginning ch3 in each round will count as your first dc unless otherwise stated

~Puff Stitch (puff st) – loop over, insert hook into stitch, pull through 3x, loop over again, pull through all loops on hook.

~ dc dec – loop over, insert hook into 1^st st, loop over, pull through, loop over, pull through 2 loops, loop over, insert hook into 2^nd st, loop over pull through st, loop over pull through 2 loops, loop over, pull through rem loops on hook

You can start with a magic ring, but I like how open it is if you start the way I did.

Here we go!!!

ch2, 8 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, join with sl st in 1^st sc.

Rd 1: ch4 [counts as 1^st dc and ch1 sp here and throughout] sk 1^st sc, *dc, ch1 – repeat from * in each)] remaining sc around, join with sl st to top of ch 3 (8dc, 8ch sp)

Rd 2 – ch3 [counts as 1st dc here and throughout], dc in same ch sp, 2 dc in next dc, * 2dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch1 sp, - repeat from * in each st around, join with sl st to top of ch 3 (32 dc)

Rd 3 –ch3, 2 dc in next dc, * 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch1 sp, - repeat from * in each st around, join with sl st to top of ch 3 

Rd 4 – ch 2 [not a st] puff st in top of ch 3, *ch1, sk next dc, puff st in next dc, - repeat from * around, ch 1, join with sl st to first puff st 

Rd 5 – ch 3, dc in 1^st puff st, * 1 dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next puff st, - repeat from * around to last 3 st, 1 dc in each rem st, join with sl st into top of ch 3 

Rd 6 – ch3, 2 dc in next dc, * 1 dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in dc sp, - repeat from * in each st around, join with sl st to top of ch 3 

Rd 7 – ch3, dc in same st, *1 dc in each of the next 3, 2 dc in next dc, - repeat from * around to last 3 st, dc in rem 3 st, join with sl st to top of ch 3 

Rd 8 – ch3, 1 dc in next 3 dc, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc, - repeat from * around, 2 dc in last dc, join with sl st to top of ch 3 

Rd 9 – repeat Round 4

Rd 10 – ch3, 1 dc in each puff st and ch around, join with sl st in top of ch 3

Rd 11 – ch3, dc in next dc, dc dec, *dc in next 2 dc, dc dec, - repeat from * around, join with sl st to top of ch 3

Rd 12 – ch 2 [not a st] puff st in top of ch 3, *ch1, sk 2 dc, puff st in next dc – repeat from * around, join with sl st to top of first puff st

Rd 13 – ch1, hdc in each puff st and ch around, sl st in first hdc. Do not finish off

Ribbing

chain 6

Row 1 - sc in 2^nd ch from hook and rem 5 ch, sl st in nearest hdc on rd 13 of hat, sl st in next hdc of hat, turn

Row 2 – sc in back loop only of each 5 sc of prev row, ch1, turn

Row 3 – sc in back loop only of each 5 sc of prev row, sl st in hdc of nearest hdc on rd 13 of hat, sl st into next hdc of hat, turn.

~ repeat rows 2 and 3 in order around the hat, ending with row 3.

To Finish Off – Cut a tail long enough to sew together the final row of the ribbing tot he first row. Try to match up the ribbing. Weave in the loose end.

Enjoy! You are free to give this pattern away to others so they can make it, you can make this hat to give and sell, but please do not sell the pattern. Thank you!!!

~Christinanthemum