Monday, October 3, 2022

Bowser

Long time no see!! Between children, caretaking my dad the last 6 months of his life, and other health problems, it's been a while since I've even logged on to my blog.

Sorry, for those of you who follow me and to anyone who has commented on previous posts. I have gone back and replied, if anyone still cares... after a few years, it's doubtful.


Oh well. 


Anyway..


I've crocheted two Bowsers in the past years for gifts, without a pattern (mostly).



I didn't  write the first one down, but THIS time I attempted it. Uhg, how misserable. I admire people who write patterns, I'd much rather just make the things.

So, I tried to write this down. And, I will admit, the pattern was partly copied from this website, where she made an amazingly detailed Bowser and wrote a wonderful pattern. But there is also a good bit of my own work in this version, as I did many things differently.

Disclaimer: this is half-tutorial style. If you don't know the stitches or general crochet how-to, this may not be for you. I'm not good at writing patterns. I've tried and it's just not my skill.

Sorry.

I'll try to check back occasionally to reply to comments, but that's another thing I'm not very good at doing...

Anyway, here is my attempt at a pattern for Bowser.

Body-golden
Round 1: sc 6 in Magic Ring (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Round 3: *sc in next, 2 sc in next sc* around (18)
Round 4: *sc in next 2, 2 sc in next sc* around (24)
Round 5: *sc in next 3, 2 sc in next sc* around (30)
Round 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Round 7-8: sc in each sc around (36)
Round 9: *sc in next 5, 2 sc in next sc* around (42)
Round 10-12: sc in each sc around (42)
Round 13: *sc next 13, 2 sc next sc* around (45)
Round 14-15: sc in each sc around (45)
Round 16: *sc in next 8, 2 sc next sc* around (50)
Round 17: sc in each sc around (50)
Round 18: *sc in next 9, 2 sc in next sc* around (55)
Round 19: sc in each sc around (55)
Round 20: *sc in next 10, 2 sc in next sc* around (60)
Round 21-23: sc in each sc around (60)
Round 24: *sc in next 4, decrease in next 2* around (50)
Round 25: *sc in next 3, decrease in next 2* around (40)
Round 26: *sc in next 2, decrease in next 2* around (30)
Round 27: *sc, decrease in next 2* around (20)
Round 28: *decrease in next 2* around (10)
F/O. Sew together to close tightly, otherwise will be left with big holes from the decreases


Leg- golden (make 2)

Rds 1-5: Increase to 30
Rd 6: sc in each around
Rd 7: Dec 6x, 1 sc in each remaining sc (24)
Rd 8: dec 4x, 1 sc in next 12, dec 2x (18)
Rd 9- 19: 1 sc in each around
> rd 13&14: 6 ldc in front of leg for knee bend <
Rd 20: 8 sc, finish off with long tail for sewing
*Total of 20 rounds



Arms - golden (make 2)


Rd 1: ch7, skip 1st ch, 12 sc around the chain (form an oval)
Rd 2-5: 1 sc in each sc around
Rd 6: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5, repeat from * around (14 sc)
Rd 7: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next, sc in next 6, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining 3 (16 sc)
Rd 8-16: 1 sc in each around
> Rd 10-11: ldc to make an elbow (4 stitches per round) <


Claws - white: 3 foundation sc on each finger and toe


Tail - golden

Round 1: Sc 6 in MR
Round 2: *sc in each sc* around (6)
Round 3: *sc, 2 sc in next sc* around (9)
Round 4: *sc in each sc* around (9)
Round 5: *sc 2, 2 sc in next sc* around (12)
Round 6: *sc in each sc* around (12)
Round 7: *sc 3, 2 sc in next sc* around (15)
Round 8: *sc in each sc* around (15)
Round 9: *sc 4, 2 sc in next sc* around (18)
Round 10: *sc in each sc* around (18)
Round 11: *sc 5, 2 sc in next sc* around (21)
Round 12:*sc in each sc* around (21)
Round 13: *sc 6, 2 sc in next 2 sc* around (24)
Round 14: *sc in each sc* around (24)



Shell (green)

Round 1: 6 sc in MR
Round 2: *2 sc in each sc* around (12)
Round 3: *sc, 2 sc in next sc* around (18)
Round 4: *sc 2, 2 sc in next sc* around (24)
Round 5: *sc 3, 2 sc in next sc * around (30)
Round 6: *sc 4, 2 sc in next sc* around (36)
Round 7: *sc 5, 2 sc in next sc* around (42)
Round 8-9: *sc in each sc* around

Shell edge
Romanian chord to length

Shell spikes - white (make 7)
Rd 1: 3 sc
Rd 2: 2sc in each sc (6)
Rd 3: *2sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next, repeat from * 2 times (9)

Sew together




Belly - tan
Row 1: 4 fdc
Row 2: 5 hdc
row 3: *2hdc in next, hdc, repeat from * 2 hdc in last (8)
Row 4: 2 hdc in first and last hdc, hdc in each between (10)
Row 5: inc in first hdc, hdc in each until last, 2 hdc in last (12)
Rows 6- 9: 1 hdc in each
Row 10 : dec hdc, hdc in next 8, dec hdc




Head - green
Round 1: sc 7 in MR
Round 2: *2 sc in each sc* around (14)
Round 3: *sc, 2 sc in each sc* around (21)
Round 4: *sc in each sc* around (21)
Round 5: * sc 2, 2 sc in next sc* around (28)
Round 6: *sc 3, 2 sc in next sc* around (35)
Rd 7-10: 1 sc ineach around
>Switch  to tan color<
Rd 11: 2 sc in next, *1 sc in next, 2 sc in next* repeat from *to* 7 times, 1 sc in remaining sc around (44sc)
Rd 12: *2sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next * 11 times, 1 sc in remaining 22 sc (55 sc)
Rd 13-15: 1 sc in each sc
Rd 16: 1 sc in next 9, sc dec, repeat around (50 sc)
Rd 17: 1 sc in next 3, scdec, repeat around (40sc)
Rd 18: 1 sc in next 8, scdec, repeat around (36)
Rd 19: 1 sc in next 4, scdec around (30)
Rd 20: 1 sc in next 3, scdec around (24)
Rd 21: 1 sc in next 2, scdec around (18)
Rd 22: 1 sc in next sc, scdec around (12)
Rd 23: dec around (6)



Lower jaw - tan
Row 1: 6 sc in MR
Row 2: 2 sc in next 4, ch1, turn
Row 3: *2sc in next, 1 sc in next,* repeat around, ch 1, turn
Row 4: *2sc in next, 1 sc in next 2* repeat around, ch 1, turn
Row 5: *2sc in next, 1 sc in next 3* repeat around, ch1, turn
Row 6: *2sc in next, 1 sc in next 4* repeat around, ch 1, turn
Row 7-9: 1 sc in each, ch 1, turn
Row 10: *decsc in next 2, 1 sc in next 3* repeat around, ch 1, turn
Row 11: (add black in middle) *decsc in next 2, 1 sc in next 3* repeat around, ch 1, turn
Row 12: *decsc in next 2, 1 sc in next 2* repeat around, ch 1, turn

>sew on bottom of the head before sewing head to body, using long tail to divide two upper cheeks<




Horns - white (make 2)
5 sc in MR
1 sc in each
Inc to 8
3 rounds of 8

Nose - tan

Rd 1: 4 sc in MR
Rd 2: 1 sc in 1st, 2 sc in next, 2 times (6)
Rd 3: 1 sc in next 2, 2 in next, 2 times (8)
Rd 4: 1 sc in each
Finish off, leaving long tail. Do not stuff

Embroider eyes

Add shelled hair and 2 extra horns (like the shell horns, but longer)





Final Disclaimer: This is not my character. Do not sell this pattern, and per copywrite laws you may not be able to sell the finished product depending on where you live and such. I don't know. 



Enjoy!!

Thursday, November 14, 2019

Baby booties

So, been a while.

I’m still improvising crochet projects ALL THE TIME, but rarely write them down.

Here’s one I did type out!

Materials: baby weight yarn
Hook size G


Ch 10.

Round 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next 5 chains, 6hdc in last ch. 
(Working along the opposite side of row just worked)
1 hdc in each of next 6 chs, 5hdc in last ch (which is the 1st stitch of rnd) 


2: ch1, 1 hdc in first 9 hdc, 2 hdc in next 3 hdc, 1 hdc in next 9, 2 hdc in rem 3 hdc

3: 1 hdc in first 11, 2 hdc in next 2, 1 hdc in next 13, 2 hdc in next 2, 1 hdc in rem 2 hdc

4: 1 fphdc in each hdc around 

5: 1 hdc in each hdc around (34 hdc)

6: 1 hdc in next 10 hdc, 3 hdctog (3x), 1 hdc in next 10 hdc, 2 hdc together, 1 hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc tog (26 hdc)

7: 1 hdc in next 7 hdc, 5 hdc tog, sk next hdc, 5 hdc tog, 1 hdc in rem 8 hdc (17 hdc)
Image.jpeg

Boot cuff (switch to rows, front loop only)
Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch and each rem ch (6 sc), so st to boot, sl st into next hdc, sc in each sc, ch 1, turn, repeat around.

In contrasting color, crab st (reverse sc) around top edge

Use yarn to tie a decorative bow, and it’s done!


IMG_6390.jpeg

Friday, January 16, 2015

Boot Cuff- better pictures

Ok, so here are some better pictures to help with my last post.
For this pair, I am using Red Heart worsted and US I hook (5.5mm).

Start with measuring around your leg (cm makes it easier to get a good fit)

Base of cuff
Decide how tall you want your base. This will be under the boot and keeps the cuff from sliding down.
 You will make simple sc ribbed rows, working in the back loop only, ch1, and turn each row.

Here is the start of my 20sc, back loop only, ribbing which is the base of the cuff.

For my leg, I need to continue until it is 32 cm long (42 rows in those case) .


Then, grab both ends, hold them together, and sl st across to make a tube.

Turn the tube on its side like so.

You will work the decorative part in the top of the tube.

Switch to larger hook (forme, US K :6.5mm)
Pick a stitch pattern you like. (I wanted a shell stitch, so I needed a multiple of 6+1)
This part is worked in rows, turning each time.

1- sc around evenly, ch1, turn
2- hdc around in each sc, ch, turn
3- begin stitch pattern (again, for me, shells)
Continue your stitch pattern until the cuff is your desired height. Cut yarn and weave ends in.

In my picture, you see I changed yarns. I ran out of my blue ww and decided to use a thin yarn with the larger hook to try a lacy-er look.

Here area few pictures of it finished.
 Here you can see the slit left by doing rows. I find it easier to fold over the top of the boot with the slit.
 Folded over on itself.
A closer view of the shell pattern.

I hope this clarifies my past post a bit for you.

What do you think?

Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Boot Cuff Tutorial

Boot cuffs seem to be all the rage now, and they are really simple to make.
Measurments Needed: 
cm around where the top of your boot lands on your leg.
Ex: my boots go up to my knee, so I took my tape measure and found the top of my calf is 33.5 cm
To make sure it fits snug and doesn't slide down, decrease by about 1cm.

Materials Needed
Yarn of choice (I chose a semi-bulky soft yarn)
Two crochet hooks, two sizes apart (for me, US I and US K worked with my yarn choice)

Bottom of Cuff
ch somewhere between 11 and 21 (this part will be under the boot, so the length will be up to your preference)
Row One: sc in 2nd ch and in each ch across
Row Two: ch1, turn, sc in back loop of each sc
Repeat row two until it matches the above mentioned measurement (using an I hook and semi-bulky yarn, I reached 32 cm with 36 rows)
Put ends together and sl st across to close seem.

Switch to a bigger hook (two sizes worked for me)

This is where you can get creative. Pick a stitch pattern you like. My first go I went with a simple shell pattern.
1- sc evenly around (working in the side of the stitches you made) the number of stitches needed as a base for your chosen pattern
For me, that meant a multiple of 6+1
2- ch 1, turn, hdc in each sc
3- Work stitch pattern, working in rows and turning each time. That leaves a slit in the back where it can fold easily over the top of the boot, or not wad up behind your knee if your making the cuff for a tall boot.

My first set turned out at you see below.

In this one you can kinda see where my slit was.

A closer view of one

How it looks on and folded over


I promise to take pictures as I work on my next pair and post them in a follow-up soon.

Sunday, November 2, 2014

Doll capelet

This is more of a tutorial than actual pattern. ..

Row 1: Ch an even number, sc in each ch (odd number of sc)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), * skip one, V-stitch in next sc, repeat from*  to the end, dc in last stitch

Row 3: ch3, all the way across put 1 dc in each dc and 2 dc in ch 1 space of v-stitches, ending with 1 dc in turning ch

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until it is large enough to drape over the shoulders, ending with row 2. Each row may not work out perfectly evenly, but that's why this isn't a real pattern as much as tutorial style.

Row (5): ch 3, 3dc in ch space of v-stitch all the way across, dc in turning ch

Row (6): ch 3, v-stitch in middle dc across, dc in turning ch

Repeat last 2 rows until it's the length you want (I ended with row 5)


Cut yarn. Time for the hood!

Row 1: dc in 1 st st, 2 dc in next- across
Row 2: 1 dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next- across
Repeat that increase pattern until it's large enough to fit around the dolls head, then dc in each dc for the height of the head.
Fold in half and sew together,

Sc around the entire thing to give it a smoother look.

Add ch stitching on both sides of the next to tie it on.

These are different ideas. Maybe your doll of choice can have a new hooded capelet for the winter.
:-)

Here is my finished version. I used two colors because I didn't have enough of the red, lol.




Thursday, October 30, 2014

Wow, been a while...

Ok, so soon after my last post I found out I was pregnant and life has been crazy ever since.
To sum up the almost two and a half years, I am now a stay at home mom to a lovely two year old girl. I've lost three babies in the womb but God is still good. Scratch that, God is great!

I'm still into my own crochet patterns/improvises but not practiced at writing them out.

I've also gotten into DIY homemaking and exercising so you may see some of those adventures here.

Can't promise to update daily, but now that I've recovered my password I can update! Yay!

Stay tuned (I say to, like, one official follower who may not even see this blog anymore.)
If you stumbled across this blog,  come back and see if you like what will be coming.

God bless!

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Flower pin

Couldn't remember or find the flower pattern I wanted, so made one up today.
Enjoy!

Round 1: 8 sc in magic ring, sl st tog, ch1
Round 2: Sc, *ch2, sc in next sc, repeat from *around,ch2 sl st tog
Round 3: sl st into ch2 space, ch1, 3sc in sp, ch1, *3 sc in next ch sp, ch1, repeat from * around, sl st tog

Change color
Sl st in any sc of round 2, ch 1

Round 4: Sc around sc in rd 2, *ch 3, sc in next sc, repeat from *around
Round 5: In each ch sp, sc, 3 dc, sc

Change color
Sl st in any sc of round 4, ch1

Round 6: Sc in rd 4, * ch5, sc in next sc, repeat frpm * around
Round 7: In each ch5 sp, sc, 5dc, sc

Hope that makes sense! Picture to come.