Starbella Yarn Scarf

All the patterns online for Starbella Yarn is for knit projects, but you actually CAN crochet with this yarn.

This pattern is what I found from Primier, but modified a bit because I don't like the ruffles quite so big.

First, how to use the Starbella Yarn with a crochet hook -
1 - Stretch it out and untwist (a constant thing with Starbella yarn, but you get used to how to hold it if you mess around with fingering enough).
2 - You chain by inserting your hook in the first top loop, then loop the 2nd loop and pull through, then next loop and pull through, et al.
3 - You make a sc by inserting hook in st, pull next top loop through, then pick up the next top loop and pull through both.
(8 minute video on the starbella website here.  In fact, this video gives you a pattern to go by, but it's not the one I'm posting.)

If you don't want to watch the video, or it doesn't work for you, then here are some pictures I took of the process.

Step one: Pull from the ball and separate so you can see the netting.

 Step 2: Insert hook along the top loops/holes of the netting (this is what you crochet with) - first 1 and 2 loops

 Pull the 2nd loop through the 1st loop, creating the first ch st.  Repeat this to continue a chain

So, using the top loops, I simply...

ch 10, sc in the 1st ch
*ch 10, sc in las sc *
repeat from * to * until it's as long as you want it to be.

When finished, finish off by pulling the un-separated yarn through a final loop and pulling tight to make a knot.

This is my final in the color you see above.

Hope that makes sense and you enjoy it!

Cloak Pattern!!

I wanted a cloak for RenFest, and of course I wanted to make it.  So I looked and looked for a free pattern that I liked.  Well, I only found 2 free patterns and I didn't much care for the look or construction, but they helped me with an idea.

So I give credit to Lion Brand's Day and Night Poncho and Linda Kaye Smith's Ruffled Shawl/Cape for inspiration.

Using math and weight of the finished product, I figured I used about 8 skeins or 1500 yards of yarn for this project.

Here is my pattern.

One-piece Cape with hood

Hook:  I

Yarn: Homespun (or similar weight)

Body

sc foundation 48

Row 1: ch2 (counts as dc here and throughout) dc in each sc across – 48 dc

Row 2: ch2, dc in each dc across – 48 dc

Row 3: ch2, dc in next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 56 dc

Row 4: ch2, dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 64 dc

Row 5: ch2, dc in next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 72 dc

Row 6: ch2, dc in next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 80 dc

Row 7: ch2, dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 88 dc

Row 8: ch2, dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 10 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 96 dc

Row 9: ch2, dc in next 10 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 104 dc

Row 10: ch2, dc in next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 12 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 112 dc

Rows 11 – 12: ch2, 1 dc in each dc – 112 dc

Row 13: ch2, dc in next 12 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 13 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 120 dc

Rows 14-15: ch2, 1 dc in each dc – 120 dc

Row 16: ch2, dc in next 13 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 14 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 128 dc

Rows 17-18: ch2, 1 dc in each dc – 128 dc

Row 19: ch2, dc in next 14 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 15 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 136 dc

Rows 20-21: ch2, 1 dc in each dc – 136dc

Row 22: ch2, dc in next 15, 2 dc in next (dc in next 16dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 144dc

Rows 23-30: ch2, 1 dc in each dc

Row 31: ch2, dc in next 16, 2 dc in next, (dc in next 17 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 7 times – 152 dc

Rows 32-39 – ch2, 1 dc in each dc – 152 dc

Row 40: ch2, dc in next 17 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 18, 2dc in next dc) 7 times – 160 dc

Rows 41-48: ch2, 1 dc in each dc – 160dc

Row 49: ch2, dc in next 18 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 19, 2dc in next dc) 7 times – 168 dc

Rows 50-57: ch2, 1 dc each dc – 168 dc

Row 58: ch2, dc in next 19dc, 2 dc in next dc, ( dc in next 20, 2dc in next dc) 7 times – 176 dc

Finish off

Hood

Attach new yarn with a slip stitch to first ch on opposite side of starting ch of body

Row 1: ch2, dc in next 6 ch, 2 dc in next ch, (dc in next 7, 2dc in next dc) 5 times – 54 dc

Rows 2-3: ch2, 1 dc in each across

Row 4: ch2, dc in nest 7, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 8, 2dc in next dc) 5 times – 60 dc

Rows 5-6: ch2, 1 dc in each across

Row 7: ch2, dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 9, 2dc in next dc) 5 times – 66 dc

Rows 8-9: ch1, 1 dc in each across

Row 10: ch2, dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in next, (dc in next 10, 2dc in next dc) 5 times – 72 dc

Rows 11-16: ch2, 1 dc in each across

Row 17: ch2, 1 dc in next 31 dc – 32 dc

Rows 18-20: ch2, 1 dc in each across.

~ Fold to where the end of row 20 touches the end of row 17 and sew together, finish off

Edging

attach with a slip stitch anywhere along the edge, ch1, hdc evenly around the entire cloak, finish off.

Enjoy!  Please feel free to make this for whatever use, but give me credit and DON'T sell the pattern.

God bless!

Little Boy/Girl Potholders

I found some potholders at the fleamarket and the lady only wanted 50 cents for the set.  So, naturally, I bought them.  Besides, I wanted to be able to figure out the pattern and share it because it's Oh So Cute!

Here are the ones I bought.

Now for the pattern and my finished version.

Materials: Cotton Yarn (I used a local stores, but you could use the typical Sugar 'n Creme) - 2 colors
Size I hook

Notes:
This pattern is worked in rounds unless otherwise stated (no turning) and top-down - the hanger row is done last
First ch2 of each round does not count as a dc
Boy and girl versions are identical until round 7
The top of the pants/skirt is also the same.
Pattern is worked in back loop only unless otherwise stated

Special Stitches: dc increase (dc inc) - 3 dc in one dc
Shell pattern - sc, skip one st, 5 dc in next, skip one st, repeat from beginning (work in both loops)

ch 19

Round 1: 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch to end, 3 dc in last ch, 1 dc on the opposite side of the ch, end with 1 dc in last(beginning) ch, sl st tog (36dc)

Round 2: ch2, 1 dc in first 9 dc, dc inc, 1 dc in next 17 dc, 3 dc in next, 1 dc in rem dc, sl st tog (40 dc)

Round 3-7: *1 dc in all dc to the dc inc, dc in first dc of increase, dc increase in 2nd, 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * once, then 1 dc in each rem dc, sl st tog (you should be adding and even 4 stitches each round.  Round 7 = 60 dc)


Girl version: using your 2nd color

Rd 8: using both loops, sc in each st around, sl st tog, change back to 1st color (60 sc)
Rd 9 : dc in each sc around, sl st tog, finish off (60 dc)

Between the legs:
Row 1: attach yarn to a dc just before where the inc pattern stopped, ch2, 1 dc in next 5 dc, ch2, turn (5 dc)
Row 2: 1 dc in each dc (5 dc)

Sew flap to the other side of skirt and finish off

Around the legs: attach 2nd color anywhere on one 'leg" and do the shell stitch pattern, sl st tog, finish off (7 shells and 7 sc)  Note: I usually start just left of the section between the legs, but it doesn't matter much
Repeat for other side.

Boy version

Legs

Rd 1: with 2nd color and working in both loops, sc in each dc to the dc inc, turn the work and sc in each dc after the dc inc on the opposite side, sl st tog, finish off. (29 sc)
Rd 2: with 1st color, dc in each sc around, finish off (29 dc)
Rd 3 : with 2nd color and working in both loops, sc in each dc around.  Finish off (29 sc)

Repeat for 2nd leg on other side.


Hanger on both potholders

attach color 2 with a sl st in edge of beg ch, ch 1, sc in the ch across (17 sc)
ch 8, sl st in 6th ch from hook, ch1, 12 sc in circle created, sl st tog, finish off.

Here's what my finished ones looked like!

Newborn Mickey Mouse Hat

I was commissioned to make some baby hats, and one was a Mickey Mouse Look-a-like.  Well, there are no patterns for Newborns out there for free, so I decided to write mine down as I went.  Enjoy and Happy Crocheting!

I used Vannas Choice Worsted Weight and an I hook.

Main Hat

Throughout the pattern you will join with a sl st into the first dc and ch2 - the ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch.

Begin with a Magic Ring and 8 dc into magic ring.

Rd 2 - 2 dc in each dc (16 dc)

Rd 3 - 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat around (24 dc)

Rd 4 - 1 dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat around (32 dc)

Rd 5 - 1 dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat around (40 dc)

Rd 6-9 - 1 dc in each dc around (at end of round 9, join w/sl st and only ch1)

Rd 10 - sc in each dc around.  Finish off and weave in end.


Ears (make 2)

Begin with Magic Ring, 6 sc into magic ring

Rd 2 - 2 sc in each sc around, sl st, ch1 (12 sc)

Rd 3 - 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around, sl st, ch1 (18 sc)

Rd 4 - 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, *1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around, sc in final sc, sl st, ch1 (24 sc)

Rd 5 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around, sl st, ch1 (30 sc)

Rd 6 - 1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in nest sc, * 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, * repeat 4 times, 1 sc in next 2 sc, finish off leaving a long tail to sew with (31 sc)

Rd 6 will not be a complete round, you should have 5 unworked sc.


When you finish both ears, use the tail and a needle to sew them into place and weave in the ends.  This should give you a newborn hat with about a 13 in circumference.


Feel free to use this pattern, give it to others, give the finished product as a gift or even sell it but please do NOT sell the pattern or claim it as yours.  In fact, I'd love for you to tell people where you got it from please!  Thanks!

Improvizing - Topped Kitchen Towels

Learn to improvise when crocheting.  This is key when creating unique items.

For example - topped kitchen towels.


I often crochet a top onto kitchen towels to give as gifts or sell at flea markets.  Half of this is improvisation, half of it is the use of a stitch pattern.  This will be my attempt to explain to you how to make said topped towels without the use of a fabric hole puncher.

First, you pick your yarn colors and thread a darning needle with the yarn of your choice.  Use the blanket stitch and sew the yarn onto the top of the towel, folded in half as you see in the pictures above.  I usually leave about 1/4 to 1/2 inch between each stitch (eyeing it, not measuring.  You can measure it you want).  Tie it off.

Count your stitches.  I like to try to have it where if I crochet twice into each blanket stitch I'll get a multiple of 3, but it doesn't really matter.


Using around a size I-K hook, attach your yarn with a sl st to the end of one of the blanket stitches.  ch 1, sc across each of the blanket stiches.

Again, this is where you improvise.  It's fuller if you get at least 2 into each blanket stitch and 3 into the first and last.

Towel 1

If you have a multiple of 3+2 stitches, then the following looks wonderful...

Row 1 - ch3 (counts as dc here and throughout), sk 2 sc, V-stitch in next sc, * skip next 2 sc, V-stitch in next * repeat across to least sc, dc in last sc.

Row 2 - ch3, V- stitch in first V-stitch and in each V-stitch across, 1 dc in lact dc

Repeat Row 2 at least 2 more times.

(count the number of V-stitches you have.  This is where everyone's will be a little different.  If you have 18 V-stitches, you can decrease by multiples of 6 or 3.  If you have 15, you have to decrease by a multiple of 5 or 3.  You will decrease by skipping over V-stitches in the previous row or, if you don't like the hole that leaves, working a V-stitch in the space between V-stitches [this would be like doing a dcdec inbetween 2 dc stitches] Decrease like you do when working a circle.  1dc, 1dc, 1dcdec, 1dc, dc, 1dcdec for a multiple of 3)


Improvising decreasing rows - ch3, V-stitch in first V-stitch, decrease accordingly across, dc in turning ch

Continue decreasing rows - until you have only 5-7 V-stitches left.

Final decreasing row 1 - ch3, dc in each V-stitch across, dc in turning ch

Final Decrease Row 2 - ch2 (not a st), dc dec, dc in each dc across to last 2 dc, dc dec
* if you have 5 dc, stop here, if not, repeat this row until you do.

Handle Flap

Row 1- ch3, dc in each dc across and in turning ch

Repeat row 1 until desired length.

Button Hole

Row 1 - ch1, hdc in each dc across and in turning ch

Row 2, ch1, hdc in next 2 hdc, ch1, sk next hdc, hdc in last 2 hdc

Row 3 - ch1, hdc in each hdc and ch across

Finish off


Fold the handle over, fund a nice button to sew onto where you want it.

Optional Border

On one of the corners where the towel meets the yarn, attach with a sl st, ch1, sc even around your topper (be sure to make 3sc in the corners of you handle to make it squared)

Finish off
 
There ya go, you have a towel to hang in the kitchen!



Towel 2
 
If you have just a random number of stitches, then...

Row 1 - ch3 (counts as 1st dc here and throughout), dc in each sc across

Row 2 - ch3, dc in each dc across and in turning ch

Row 3 - repeat for 2 at least 2-3 more times

Improvising even decreases (count your stitches, you want to decrease evenly across, otherwise your towel will hang sideways)

Dec Row 6 - ch3, * dc in next x dc, dc dec, * repeat from * to the middle, then * dc dec, dc in next x dc, * repeat from * across until last st, dc in last st.

Dec Rows 7-10(ish) - repeat dec row 6 until you reach 5 dc

Handle

Row 1 - ch3, dc in each dc across

repeat row 1 until handle is desired length

Button Hole

Row 1 - ch1, hdc in each dc across and in turning ch

Row 2, ch1, hdc in next 2 hdc, ch1, sk next hdc, hdc in last 2 hdc

Row 3 - ch1, hdc in each hdc and ch across

Finish off


Fold the handle over, fund a nice button to sew onto where you want it.

Optional Border

On one of the corners where the towel meets the yarn, attach with a sl st, ch1, sc even around your topper (be sure to make 3sc in the corners of you handle to make it squared)


Finish off

There ya go, you have a second towel to hang in the kitchen!




Hope that makes enough sense for you.  Again, it's highly improvised, but not that hard once you sit down to it.  And the wonderful thing about it is if you have a stitch dictionary there are lots of different things you can find to do with the various numbers of stitches you'll start off with.

Have fun!!

Pattern Time!

So, it's summer and I want to type up some patterns I've been working on.

For example, I made a slouchy hat for a friend and LOVED it, so I made another one for me and this time wrote down the pattern.

I'm going to post the pattern and some pictures....  Hope you enjoy it!! Please, if you decide to make it, post comments (and if you can/want, pictures) and let me know how it went.

Summer Puff Slouchy Hat

Materials

Caron Simply Soft – 1 Skein (I used Country Blue)

Size N Hook is what I used, you can modify for a smaller slouch use a smaller hook or a longer/larger slouch use a bigger hook.

Notes

Beginning ch3 in each round will count as your first dc unless otherwise stated

~Puff Stitch (puff st) – loop over, insert hook into stitch, pull through 3x, loop over again, pull through all loops on hook.

~ dc dec – loop over, insert hook into 1^st st, loop over, pull through, loop over, pull through 2 loops, loop over, insert hook into 2^nd st, loop over pull through st, loop over pull through 2 loops, loop over, pull through rem loops on hook

You can start with a magic ring, but I like how open it is if you start the way I did.

Here we go!!!

ch2, 8 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, join with sl st in 1^st sc.

Rd 1: ch4 [counts as 1^st dc and ch1 sp here and throughout] sk 1^st sc, *dc, ch1 – repeat from * in each)] remaining sc around, join with sl st to top of ch 3 (8dc, 8ch sp)

Rd 2 – ch3 [counts as 1st dc here and throughout], dc in same ch sp, 2 dc in next dc, * 2dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch1 sp, - repeat from * in each st around, join with sl st to top of ch 3 (32 dc)

Rd 3 –ch3, 2 dc in next dc, * 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch1 sp, - repeat from * in each st around, join with sl st to top of ch 3 

Rd 4 – ch 2 [not a st] puff st in top of ch 3, *ch1, sk next dc, puff st in next dc, - repeat from * around, ch 1, join with sl st to first puff st 

Rd 5 – ch 3, dc in 1^st puff st, * 1 dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next puff st, - repeat from * around to last 3 st, 1 dc in each rem st, join with sl st into top of ch 3 

Rd 6 – ch3, 2 dc in next dc, * 1 dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in dc sp, - repeat from * in each st around, join with sl st to top of ch 3 

Rd 7 – ch3, dc in same st, *1 dc in each of the next 3, 2 dc in next dc, - repeat from * around to last 3 st, dc in rem 3 st, join with sl st to top of ch 3 

Rd 8 – ch3, 1 dc in next 3 dc, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc, - repeat from * around, 2 dc in last dc, join with sl st to top of ch 3 

Rd 9 – repeat Round 4

Rd 10 – ch3, 1 dc in each puff st and ch around, join with sl st in top of ch 3

Rd 11 – ch3, dc in next dc, dc dec, *dc in next 2 dc, dc dec, - repeat from * around, join with sl st to top of ch 3

Rd 12 – ch 2 [not a st] puff st in top of ch 3, *ch1, sk 2 dc, puff st in next dc – repeat from * around, join with sl st to top of first puff st

Rd 13 – ch1, hdc in each puff st and ch around, sl st in first hdc. Do not finish off

Ribbing

chain 6

Row 1 - sc in 2^nd ch from hook and rem 5 ch, sl st in nearest hdc on rd 13 of hat, sl st in next hdc of hat, turn

Row 2 – sc in back loop only of each 5 sc of prev row, ch1, turn

Row 3 – sc in back loop only of each 5 sc of prev row, sl st in hdc of nearest hdc on rd 13 of hat, sl st into next hdc of hat, turn.

~ repeat rows 2 and 3 in order around the hat, ending with row 3.

To Finish Off – Cut a tail long enough to sew together the final row of the ribbing tot he first row. Try to match up the ribbing. Weave in the loose end.

Enjoy! You are free to give this pattern away to others so they can make it, you can make this hat to give and sell, but please do not sell the pattern. Thank you!!!

~Christinanthemum